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Citrus prefers acidic soil, but our soil is around 7 or 7.2 and they grow pretty well in that neutral to alkaline soil. In pots they are more prone to stress though, so add some acid planting mix and keep feeding it monthly.

@@Gardenerd Okay thanks.I was sure citrus preferred soil closer to the 6 PH range. My tree had a flush of new growth in april but nothing since. I think I must not have been giving it enough water and fertilizer.Thanks again.

Unless you are doing high-heat composting, I don't recommend it. You could bury it in the ground somewhere that you don't plan to plant in for a while. There are just too many risks of pathogens to compost them without high temperatures.

You are most definitely in good company @coachtime6188. :-)

They're so perishable we just eat them fresh. We've made marmalade once but it was labor intensive to say the least.

I believe we have a tree planting video on this channel, but you might want to pick up a copy of Grow Your Own Mini Fruit Garden for tips on planting, soil prep, and initial pruning. It's got a lot of great info to get you started.

@@Gardenerd ok I’ll look into it. They were planted a couple of months ago. I’m wondering about summer pruning for a new tree. I cut it back a little at planting while dormant but I don’t really know what I’m doing 🫣 I just know I don’t want them to quickly grow huge and to an unmanageable size. I’ve read books and watched videos and googled but I just don’t get it…hoping it clicks one day…

@@emkn1479 You're not alone in feeling afraid of the process. It takes time to learn all the ins and outs of fruit tree care, but for now you can prune the top of your trees if they shot branches up to the sky (apples tend to do that a lot). Reduce those a little, but not too much in the first year. Over the next 3 years is when you can do most of the shaping, so just focus on reducing height right now if needed.

@@Gardenerd thanks! I think I already messed it up a bit with my initial pruning but hopefully they can recover with time.

You're welcome. There are some great articles on Dave Wilson Nursery's website by Tom Spellman (who I interviewed for my book on growing fruit in small spaces). He's a big advocate for summer pruning. Check him out!

Technically outward from the center of the plant, but if you want to prune it more in an espalier fashion or away from a wall, then yes, prune to encourage growth in that direction.

Here you go. This is our affiliate link to the pump: amzn.to/4b7rxHg

Try to be nice, please. Not everything should be fast food

Details are in the description.

I have not pruned the side shoots before, but I imagine that it might help prolong the productive period of the vines longer into the season. We get so many beans that by the time it gives up, we're ready to move on too.

@@Gardenerd Thanks for the feedback. This is my first year growing them so it is all new to me.

We use organic vegetable fertilizer. The brands we often use are Down to Earth, Dr. Earth, G&B, etc.

The doctor called her a "well-muscled cat" so I'm going with that. 🙂

Don't you hate how well they learn? It's really frustrating, and you tried all the things that often work. Physical barriers are going to do the trick. I am holding that for you.

Sorry to hear about your new pest. If you post a picture of it to our Gardenerd.com Facebook page we might be able to ID it.

If you are more advanced you don't need to remove the leaves first to see the structure of the plant. But for beginners it's a good idea. It just takes away any distractions from the shape of the canes. Also, it's important to remove the leaves between seasons for disease prevention, so whether you do it before or after you prune, it's still a major step to take before you finish.

I try to use soil mix that doesn't have vermiculite or perlite, but that can be hard to find. I think I made my own seed mix from old bed soil, coir, and compost for this flat.

Hmmm, that's odd. It makes me wonder what variety they are. If you are growing an open pollinated variety, they will produce seed. Sometimes it takes a while, but they eventually do.

I don't worry about them until harvest time. When you harvest compost they can be a nuisance. But give them a chance to dissipate and then they're not a problem. But they are movers and part of the soil food web so I let them be in the bins.

@@Gardenerd thank you! I was fortunate to find a used biostack for $25 and I set it up recently! Are there other pests to worry about with this system?

@@mk-oc7mt Rats are always an issue, but we use kill traps for those.

@@Gardenerd do the rats get into the biostack? Mine is set up over concrete so I’m hoping that won’t happen? Also thought about lining the biostack with a reinforced wire like hog wire

@@mk-oc7mt You could line each level with wire. There are slots in the bin that rats can squeeze through. They also dig under, so that might not be an issue with your setup. Motion sensor cameras are great for solve these mysteries. 🙂

They are both cool-season crops that bolt to seed quickly in hot weather. But if you tuck them behind something that causes shade, you'll get more life out of them than in full sun. You can also cover them with shade cloth to help keep them cooler. There are slow-bolt varieties of cilantro you can try too. Just keep seeding new plants every week and see what happens.

Keep us posted on how it goes. I recommend deer fencing instead of bird netting. It lasts longer and is more durable than bird netting.

This video demonstrates the major pruning that happens once per year, during the dormant season. See the description for notes on timing. You can do this kind of pruning during any month of your dormant season.

As usual, the answer is "it depends". Have you done a soil test to see what is already present in your soil? That will give you the answer you are looking for. There are simple soil tests available online and at your local nursery. They test for NPK and pH. It's much less expensive than sending soil into a lab and you'll get recommendations for how much to add based on the results.

It usually takes a little while for rats to discover the beans. You'll get a few harvests before then, most likely. We have another video about trapping rats, if you're game for it.

oh never... I have all these high frequency plug ins in my house and shed and I spray Peppermint oil . I never want yo trap them and have to get rid of them. So far these are working.

Yes, you can use this treatment on container trees. You may have to feed more often and every year or so you may have to lift the tree to add more soil at the base of the container. Be careful not to bury the trunk and first root flare too much. Those should be exposed so just add amendments around it about 4" away from the trunk.

Please check the description notes for timing. I don't recommend June.

Voles have similar behavior to gophers, but their tunnels are more like serpentine pathways. They also rarely stray from their well-made tunnels, so focus your energy on the visible evidence of their tunnels. You can use baits like sunflower or other small seeds, bread mixed with peanut butter or butter to attract them to traps.

@@Gardenerd he seemed to really like the nasturtiums. After he ate them all he left.

@@evelynbayna8824 Hmmm, come to think of it, they've been rummaging through my nasturtium patch too. I use nasturiums as a trap crop for insects, but maybe they also help keep gophers out of the raised beds if the garden is surrounded by nasturtiums. I'd rather have them destroy nasturtiums than my veggies. worth a try.

Nope, I’m here cause him right there with you!!